Issues
These are things that should be dealt with on every scooter. They are in no particular order, just read down the list and make sure you have addressed them to your satisfaction, especially when it's a new scooter. Some of these items are redundant from the PDI, but it's a critical checklist.
Spark plug: most agree that a factory Chinese plug is an accident waiting to happen. NGK's seem to be the plug of choice anymore, I think iridium is a little overkill but obviously some would argue with that. The gap should be listed in your manual but about .7mm or .025" should work for 150 and 50cc ; many mavens get very particular about an ultra specific gap but that's debatable. Torch is stock Chinese and I'd stay away from it. Ootscoot (don't you love that?) owns a dealership on the left coast, here is a link to his site: www.ootyscooter.com. He, and many others, would change to a NGK CR7HSA for a 150cc. When I first started, I pulled out the torch plug that was in mine and rode down to the local parts store. I handed them the plug and asked for something better. They gave me an Autolite for five bucks; so you might try that if you don't feel like waiting for an online order. For 50cc Goldcoast from Scoot Dawg forum says NGK 4629 works great. Flatlandbmx101 insists you get iridium regardless of the cost, but you have to remember, his heart is made of iridium
- Carb drain screw: on the left lowest aspect of the carburetor is the drain hose that runs down on the left side of
the scooter to terminate in a short metal tube with a screw in it. This is sometimes hard to find but get on a creeper and get under there! Remove the screw, be careful gas may run out. If it does let everything dry completely and then use blue Locktite to put the screw back in snugly and let it dry overnight before letting gas back into the system. This little bugger is prone to falling out while riding and then all the gas runs out of your carb. Then you're stuck on the side of the road with your cell phone, so take the time to do this and prevent a ruined outing.
- Valve settings: Wow, here we go, another area of endless debate. I would say .004" intake and .006" exhaust for 150cc, there you have a definitive answer! Dave at absolutely Scooters, who's absolutely no slouch, says .003" intake and .004" exhaust. A lot of people think .005" on both works just fine. Of course you could consult your manual. The general consensus is that you should hear a slight "tick - tick" after you set them that may go away as it warms up. A clatter means start over, you slipped when you tightened them. Four stroke 50cc engines generally go with about .002" to .004" on both valves but again, check your manual. I still contend that you can set your valves by rotating the engine FORWARD until one cam lobe is completely down, set the other valve. Repeat the procedure with the other valve. The intake valve is on top, the exhaust on the bottom. Some purists insist on the top dead center method which involves rotating the engine FORWARD until the timing marks are correct (see page 9 in the Arrow manual); your choice. There is a video on how to set them on this site but I don't like the guy's settings, kinda tight.
- Check all the fuel, vacuum lines, and air hoses carefully for cracks and leaks. Also make sure the wire clamps are positioned properly behind the connector bulbs and the hose clamps are tight on the air filtration. The PDI video shows you the fuel and vac lines to check. Some opt to replace all of the lines and put in a smaller, more efficient fuel filter. If you check very carefully, you should be OK. Just remember that if things aren't running right, this is a prime area of concern. The PDI talks about replacement. Bike Bandit sells all kinds of fuel line: www.bikebandit.com/search-products and fuel filters: www.bikebandit.com/visu-filters-in-line-fuel-filter that can be used to replace the system if you choose. Again, I have no financial ties to these people and you may want to search elsewhere; but I've used their products and they're reliable.
- Change the engine and gear oil: if you have a crate scooter change both of these before you ride it, they are only for shipping!
Of course if it is from a dealer this is not a concern. Warm it up just enough to thin the fluids and then change according to the video. Use standard grade oil for this change, 10W-30 is fine. GL-3 or 5 for the gear oil is acceptable. Some switch to synthetics after this, others use standard. I use 10W-40, some insist on motorcycle oil, it's your choice, you may want to consult your manual.
- Electrical connections: I pulled all the plugs apart on my scooter and made sure the blades were straight and the wires were tight. Some of the blades needed a little straightening with needle nose pliers. Make sure they're all tight, even check the CDI, coil, and stator connections (see the manuals for locations). Make sure the wires are held out of harm's way, zip ties are very helpful here. Dielectric grease can be used but most don't.
Check every bolt, nut, and screw you can get to and make sure it's tight. Use Loctite if you want, just make sure it's not the permanent type. If you put your own front axle on torque it to about 40-45ft.lbs and use blue Loctite. If it's from a dealer, I'd still check the axle, it's that important.
- Gasoline: First, don't overfill your tank, just up to the bar you can see down in the filler neck. Your manual probably says use premium gas, it won't hurt anything but it's not necessary. You'll actually get more energy out of 87 octane per unit. Our compression ratios are about 9:1 so regular gas is fine. If your ratio is higher for some reason (FI or mods) you'll need to bump up the octane you buy. Also, if you hear that pinging of spark knock, up your octane, it could damage the piston. There's a couple links below you can read. I throw a little Seafoam into every other fill up, I don't really measure I'm sorry to admit, a few glugs and fill it, it helps keeps things cleaned out. If it's going to sit for a long time use Sta-bil in the gas. Also, for storage, drain the carb with that obnoxious drain screw on the left side, that's what it's for. Links:
- Batteries: A lot of bad things have been said about stock Chinese scooter batteries but mine has worked fine. Adding the electrolyte can be a little tricky but just be
careful. Here's how I did my batteries and they work fine. Add the electrolyte according to the instructions included with the battery. Top off the electrolyte with some from the auto parts store to just over the plates. I've been told you don't have to do this but it didn't seem to hurt anything. Let the battery sit 30 minutes uncapped. Then I used a Black and Decker Smart Charger set at 2 amps, it tells you when it's done; still leave it uncapped while charging. After the charger is done let it sit another 30 minutes and cap it according to the instructions. If you don't install it right away put it on a smart charger. I use Battery Tender Jr., it adapts to all battery types and maintains a charge. Use it when you're not riding the scooter, all the time you're not riding, they are Chinese after all. Check your terminals once in a while and clean with baking soda water if needed. Dielectric grease can be used on all electrical connections to prevent corrosion. If your scoot clicks and won't turn over, try a jump start from a car that's NOT RUNNING. If it starts fine, and you tried to charge the battery, or it's been on a tender, time for a new battery. Get a 12V and match the amps in your manual or what's written on the old battery.
MUCH MORE TO COME!